

GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2012 (published Sep. 2011)
Cooking 5
“Graham and Jackie Garrett have carved out a very personal niche at the converted weaver’s cottage smack in the middle of pretty Biddenden. They have honed the business of cooking and courteous hospitality over the years – although some have found the resulting experience rather flat. Graham's short menu makes deceptive reading, with dish descriptions concealing a great deal of technical accomplishment and culinary intelligence – this is clever, high-end cooking without flimflam. A 'truly sensational' take on a pub classic involving a dinky ham hock with a superbly innovative Scotch egg fashioned from black pudding blew one reader away. But the underlying instinct for true tastes and contrasts also yields more complex results – perhaps warm smoked haddock carpaccio with bacon dressing, pickled rock samphire and pea shoots or a dish of gurnard fillet with braised spiced lentils and a carrot and onion bhaji on the side. Desserts offer tricks and treats based on the flavours of the past, so expect a ‘trifle’ made from sherry jelly, Catalan custard and mascarpone or a sweet-shop ‘Crunchie’ of white honeycomb parfait with dark chocolate sorbet. The kindly priced global wine list opens with tasty house selections from £11.50 a 500ml carafe (£4.75 a glass).”


