Lunch: Tuesday - Friday, 12.00 - 1.45 + Sunday (2.30)  Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 7.00 - 9.30

28, High Street, Biddenden, Kent TN27 8AH  t: 01580 291341

GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2010

Cooking 5

“Graham Garrett cooks while his wife Jackie serves in their neat, understated restaurant that forms part of a terrace of former weavers' cottages in the centre of this pretty Wealden village. It is one of those places that runs very much to its own rules and booking is essential. On the carte of around five choices per course, the concise dish descriptions hide a great deal of skill, with flavours and textures intelligently considered and juxtaposed.

So, West Mersea oysters combine with apple jelly, Avruga caviar and horseradish ‘snow’, and cold poached pork fillet arrives with warm Scotch egg, dandelion and daisy leaf. Main courses are painstakingly composed: chervil root puree, sauteed chanterelles and sea purslane accompany grilled fillets of John Dory, and a modern riff on duck a l'orange sees roasted breast with confit stuffing, foie gras, red cabbage and bitter orange. Cheeses are always British (from Neal's Yard, perhaps) and sweet treats to finish include creamed rice pudding with apple, vanilla and apple pie ice cream. An international line-up of wines at fair prices (from £14.50) hits just the right note.”

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Most of the pictures were by photographer, Sebastian Edge  WWW.PHOTOEDGE.CO.UK  © Croque-en-Bouche and The West House Restaurant, Biddenden, Kent, UK.