28, High Street, Biddenden, Kent, UK. TN27 8AH  Telephone: 01580 291341

Lunch: Tuesday - Friday, 12.00 - 1.45 + Sunday (2.30)  Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 7.00 - 9.30  

GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2009

(published Sept. 08)... Cooking 5

“A heavily beamed, sixteenth-century former weaver's cottage in the centre of a Weald village, the West House mixes stylishly- restrained decor with some assured cooking. Graham Garrett's regularly changing menus are appealing and concise. An allegiance to local produce ensures seasonality, while foraged foods often pepper the menu; look out for chickweed, wild sorrel, wild garlic and hogweed. The contemporary cooking is big on clear, clean flavours and textures: nettle soup with spiced langoustine, say, or ham hock terrine with pea cream and slow-cooked hen's egg. Then, maybe, `a brilliant pairing' of Old Spot pork belly with roast scallop and coconut, or baked shoulder and breast of Romney Marsh lamb with ewes'-milk cheese, potato puree and broad beans. High standards extend to desserts such as coffee pannacotta paired with liquorice ice cream and tiramisu foam. Breads and a smooth-textured chicken liver parfait appetiser have also been praised, while the Francophile wine list is several cuts above the average; mark-ups are fair and start with £14.95 vin de pays. Do note that booking is essential at this very personally run restaurant. Casual visitors have reported finding it inexplicably closed, or being turned away at the door (`and it wasn't even late, or full').”

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Most of the pictures were by photographer, Sebastian Edge  WWW.PHOTOEDGE.CO.UK  © Croque-en-Bouche and The West House Restaurant, Biddenden, Kent, UK.