28, High Street, Biddenden, Kent, UK. TN27 8AH  Telephone: 01580 291341

Lunch: Tuesday - Friday, 12.00 - 1.45 + Sunday (2.30)  Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 7.00 - 9.30  

The Observer, 27/11/05

If New York is a dinner too far...

Sue Webster rounds up three Michelin-starred British restaurants worth saving up for.

Lest anyone think it astonishing what a few orchids can do to a 15th-century weaver's cottage, bear in mind that Graham Garrett's Michelin-starred cooking is the thing here. It looks fantastic, but is not too neat and prissy, nor does it cost the earth - a set dinner may be had for £29.50. A former protegé of Richard Corrigan, Garrett's determination to use local supplies first put him on the map. He is still ruthlessly seasonal. Meltingly tender roe-deer casserole with chestnuts, girolles, lardons and celeriac is an autumn star, but so too is slow-cooked belly of pork, Rye Bay scallops, braised lentils and chicory. Puddings follow suit: doesn't the mere thought of pumpkin cake with walnut, raisin and maple syrup ice cream, or quince and apple croustade, make you want to shake the leaves off the trees yourself?

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Most of the pictures were by photographer, Sebastian Edge  WWW.PHOTOEDGE.CO.UK  © Croque-en-Bouche and The West House Restaurant, Biddenden, Kent, UK.